Peak Climbing in Nepal

Overview

Mera peak climbing (6654m) is considered one of the major and popular trekking peaks in Nepal. The Peak itself rises to the south of Everest. The ascent of the peak is technically straightforward; however, the heavy snow and the maze of crevasses can make the way longer to the summit. Besides the charming of climbing Mera Peak, the trek to its base camp from Lukla is rewarding for experiencing little-visited and yet unspoiled region of Nepal with densely forested hill sides. There are several approaches to the base camp besides the easy and normal route, which is mentioned above. Mera Peak trek and climbing server a gate way for high altitude trekking to go over Amphulaptcha Pass (5780m) or Mingbo-La (5871m) and also for climbing on Baruntse, Chamlang and other Himalayas climbing are quite adventurous and rewarding for spectacular scenery but none of them are easy.

There are several approaches to the base camp besides the easy and normal route which is mentioned below. The normal route for climbing Mera Peak is North Face Glacier from the Mera La. Mera peak base camp can be set up at 5,300m on the Hongu side in the moraine below the ice. Normally, Mera peak high camp is set at 5,800m near a rocky outcrop on the Mera Glacier. The high camp proves to be one to the spectacular viewpoints in Nepal offering the panoramic views of Kanchanjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse sweeping around from the east and Amadablam, Cho Oyu and Kangtega to the west. The giant faces of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse appear in the north. There are three main summits which are climbable without much difficulty. The south summit (6,065m) is the most accessible with the Northern Summit (6,476m), the highest, which can be reached by skirting the Central Summit (6,461m) to the north and following snow ridge to its top. Climbing the middle summit requires ascent up on steep snow and is slightly technical. Mera North is straight-forward to climb.

Highlights

  • Sightseeing tour of historical, cultural, religious heritages sites of Kathmandu valley
  • Spectacular Lukla mountain flights with great views
  • Remarkable views of Ice fall, Summit to Mera peak at elevation of 6654 meters
  • Opportunity to crossing over Mingbo-La and Amphulapcha Pass and ascent Mera peak
  • Dramatic scenery of the giant Himalayas including Mt. Everest (8848m), Mt. Makalu (8463m) & Mt. Lhotse (8516m)
  • Honku Nup Glacial Lake and Nare Glacier.

Trip Summary

Trip Grade Moderate to Adventures
Trip Duration 18 Nights/ 19 Days
Trip code NAP-MPK-111
Trip Start/Ends Kathmandu-Lukla/Lukla-Kathmandu
Maximum Altitude Mera Peak (6654m)
Trip Cost Prices on request
Group Size Minimum 2 upto 12 persons in one group
Accessibillity 35 minutes round trip flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, start the trek according to the itinerary
The Route Maximum altitude Mera Peak (6654m) Amphulaptsa Pass (5845m) 5/7-hrs average walking per day, summit day can be long
Season Sept – Nov/March - April
Permit Fee Spring: (Mar-Apr-May) USD 250 – Autumn: (Sep-Oct-Nov) USD 125 – Winter: (Dec-Jan-Feb) USD 70 – Summer: (Jun-Jul-Aug) USD 70 per passenger and maximum number of members in a team is 15 people
Trip Facilities 3+ hotel in city on B/B and teahouse/lodges and tented accommodation during the climbing period.

Itinerary

Upon arrival at Tribhuwan international airport, welcomed by our representative and transfer to hotel. The remainder of the afternoon is at leisure. A pre-trek briefing will be given in the evening at hotel about the daily program activities by your Group Leader/Guide.

After breakfast the day will start with a guided tour of Kathmandu's historical and spiritual key attractions; including the historic Kathmndu Durbar Square, the famous 'Monkey Temple' (Swayambunath) and then finally visit to Patan Durbar square which is situated the heart of the city constitutes the focus of visitor's attraction. In the evening there will be pre-trip discussion where you can meet your group leader/guide then you can ask any questions you may have.

We catch an early morning flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and begin our trek to Paiyan after landing at the Tenzing-Hillary airport in Lukla. We walk on a jungle trail, cross a bridge over the Handi Khola and reach Surke Village. From here we continue moving south and cross the Chutok La pass before reaching the small settlement of Paiyan, also known as Chutok as well.

We descend for a while and reach a small bridge. From here the trail is slippery until we cross the Kari-La pass. We walk through rhododendron and bamboo forests on a narrow mountain trail. On today’s trip we also get to be in awe of the Dudhkoshi Valley. We continue our trek to Panggom Village whose settlers are dependent on farming and trading.

We begin our trek after breakfast. After trekking out of Panggom, we cross the Panggom-La pass. Then we ascend, walk on a steady path and turn north. We cross Peseng Kharka Khola first then after walking for some time, reach Peeng Kharka Danda. We cross Ningsow Khola before reaching the Ningsow Village. 

From Ningsow, we climb first then descend for a while and climb some more to reach Ramailo Danda. From here we get extraordinary views of Mera Peak and Salpa. After ascending and descending on our trail, we enter the Makalu Barun National Park. Our trail from here to Chhatra Khola is called Pasang Lhamu trail. On the way, if we are lucky, we might even come across the elusive Red Panda. 

We walk towards the north on the main trail to Mera Peak. After walking on a trail next to the the Majang Khola, we merge with another trail which moves alongside the Hinku Khola. Our trail moves straight ahead towards Tashing Ongma which has seasonal tea shops. We continue our trek and cross the bridge over the Sanu Khola before reaching Kothe. 

We trek along the ridge of the Hinku Khola in the shadow of Mera Peak. We take lunch at Gondishung, the summer herders' settlement in the west bank of the Hinku Drangka. Beyond Gondishung, we pass a 200-year-old Lungsumgba Gompa where we can find Mera Peak scripted in rock along with its route to reach Mera. A short walk takes us to Thaknak, which is a summer grazing area with primitive lodges and shops.

Leaving Thaknak, we follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar glaciers, and then climbs more steeply to Khare. From here, we can see the northern face of Mera Peak which will be an amazing experience. After lunch we can hike in and around Khare. 

We have a separate day set aside solely for acclimatization and basic training just to prepare ourselves better for the Mera Peak climb. Our climbing leader will help us polish our basic climbing techniques and demonstrate the best ways to use our climbing gears like the ice axe, harness, ascender climbing boots and crampons. The training will also include learning the best climbing technique with the rope. 

We walk through a boulder-strewn course on a steep trail to reach the Mera Peak Base Camp. From here, we continue further through the Mera-La pass to reach the Mera High Camp. Our path is along a rocky trail, which can be hazardous if it has recently snowed, as there are a number of crevasses here. We make our way to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn. Then we set up a high camp while enjoying excellent views of Mt. Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, the south face of Lhotse, Nuptse, Chamlang and Baruntse.

This is a really important day for the expedition. We wake up around 2 AM in the morning for breakfast. It’s going to be very cold in the beginning but soon we warm up as we continue up the glacier and onto a peculiar ridge. The first rays of the sun hit the big peaks in an amazing red glow. The route is still non-technical as we slowly climb higher into the ever-thinning air. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and the summit comes back into view. At the foot of the final steep summit cone, we may use a fixed rope if the climbing leader believes it’s required. The summit is only a few meters away. From the summit, we take in spectacular views of the mighty Himalayas including Mt. Everest (8848m), Cho-Oyu (8210m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu (8463m), Kangchenjunga (8586m), Nuptse (7855m), Chamlang (7319m), Baruntse (7129m) and others. Later, we retrace our steps back to the high camp where we rest for a while before descending to Khare. 

There is no guarantee that we will have favorable weather on our planned day for the summit. Therefore, this day is set aside as a contingency in case we are unable to summit the Mera on the desired day due to bad weather conditions or any other unanticipated reason. However, if the trip goes smoothly, this day will not be required. 

We trek from Khare to Kothe along the same trail used previously. After reaching Kothe, we celebrate our success by trying out local delicacies and wines. 

Alternate trek routes from Mera Peak: Mingbo-La pass to Everest Base Camp: Return through the upper Hongu valley and over Mingbo-La pass into the Imja valley on the Everest Base Camp route. From here a visit can be made to Everest Base camp and return to Lukla. This is a very high altitude trek through glaciated valleys with possibilities of being stranded in adverse weather condition. Only strong, well equipped, groups should attempt this route. Please let us know if you want to use this route to exit. 

Amphu Laptsa pass to Everest Base Camp: Return trek through the upper Hongu valley and then over the high pass of Amphulaptsa to come out at Chukung in the upper Imja river valley near Island Peak. From here a visit can be made to Everest Base camp and return to Lukla. This is a very high altitude trek through glaciated valleys with possibilities of being stranded in adverse weather condition. Only strong, well equipped, groups should attempt this route. Please let us know if you want to use this route to exit. 

We begin our trek to Thuli Kharka after breakfast. We climb up and descend, cross several tributaries of the Inkhu Khola before reaching a forked trail nearby Taktho. We choose the trail on our right and continue walking. Our trail passes by a Chorten after which we walk downhill on a steep trail. Next, we ascend to Thuli Kharka and pass by another Chorten on the way. 

We cross the Zatrwa-La pass (4600). As soon as we cross the pass, we are welcomed by the sight of the beautiful Lukla Valley which is surrounded by Cho Oyu, Kongde Peak, Numbur Himal, Kusum Khangru and other Himalayan peaks. From Zatrwa La pass we walk all the way down to Chutang and then straight forward to the Lukla village. In the evening we enjoy dinner in the Himalayas of Nepal with our crew. 

We catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu. After reaching Kathmandu, we can take a rest or do some souvenir shopping. If we want to explore any other areas of Kathmandu, we may do that today. Our guides can help you with both souvenirs shopping or sightseeing. There will be a farewell dinner in the evening to celebrate the climbers’ successful summit of the Mera Peak. 

We allow a Leisure day in Kathmandu incase the flight from Lukla is canceled due to weather. If you are in Kathmandu we will take you on a guided tour to Bhaktapur Durbar Square, one of the oldest cities in the valley.

After breakfast you will have some free time until the time to leave the international airport for your final departure.

Cost Included

  • Documents: Mera Peak permit,national park entrance permit & TIMS card
  • Activities: Walking, trekking and climbing as per the itinerary. . 
  • Equipment: All necessary camping equipments, kitchen utilizes and sleeping bag if necessary. 
  • Accommodation: 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu and 17 nights lodges/Tent during trekking
  •  Food: Full board on teahouse/Tented [Breakfast, lunch and dinner] during the trekking and 2 breakfast in city.
  •  Staffs: Trekking Leader/Guide, Climbing Sherpa and necessary supporters. 
  •  Transportation: Arrival/Departure transfer and surface road-head transportation and Kathmandu to Lukla and return flight.
  •  Company & Government’s service charge: All applicable Government taxes & official service charges. And Crew’s, daily wages/salary, food, equipment, air and road-head transportation

Cost Excluded

  • Your international flight
  • Travel insurance covering with emergency Helicopter rescue
  • Personal travel, trekking and climbing equiipments
  • Lunch and; Dinner while in City
  • Bar bills and Beverages
  • Tilis/Gratuities for trekking crews
  • All monastery and  temple entrance fee, while you are in city sightseeing
  • Exlienses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry,piostage, telephone calls etc.
  • Optional activities
  • And unforeseen expenses which are out of control by Nepal Adventure point

Trip Notes

Please request our Trip Note advice and detailed itinerary.

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