High Himalayan Expedition

Overview

Mount Ama Dablam Expedition (6812m) is is located in the heart of Khumbu region and lies next to well-worn path to the Everest Base Camp. Amadablam is a small snowcapped peak but vertical walls and sharp exposed ridges makes this mountain one of the most technical and difficult climb for the mountaineers. Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961 by a New Zealand and American team, and we follow their same route, the South West Ridge. Once established in base camp we move loads to Camp 1 (5300m) via a long slope to the beginning of the South West Ridge proper. This is where the technical climbing begins and the route follows the spine of the rock ridge leading directly to the Camp III. The very exposed nature of the route makes for exciting climbing yet the climbing is not as steep as one would imagine. Climbers with moderate technical experience can attempt this route. On summit day the route weaves between the ice cliffs then follows a snow area directly onto the 6812m summit.

Mount Ama Dablam expedition begins after the arrival of all climbers in Kathmandu, the group will meet up with the staffs of Nepal Adventure Point for introduction and briefing about the trip. The next day is the day for sightseeing in Kathmandu. You will be taken around for a tour of Bouddhanath, Pashupatinath, Patan and Swoyambhunath - the monkey temple. This tour will help you to understand about the historical and cultural background of Nepal, Kathmandu valley and the people of Nepal. The next couple of days are for checking equipments, final preparations, packing and other necessary document for Mount Ama Dablam expedition.

After official procedure we have 35 minutes spectacular scheduled flight to Lukla from Kathmandu on a small aircraft will take you to the gateway to the Everest region then commence trek to Phakding and trek towards Namche Bazzar. We will spend two nights at Namche Bazzar for acclimatization. From Namche we take through, Khumjung and Tyangboche then head towards Ama Dablam base camp. 

Normally, three camps are set in the approach above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the night. The ascent from Base Camp to camp one is considered one the difficult days of the expedition. We follow old grassy moraine ridges passing through a saddle and then turning to north climbing up rocky ground and through boulders to the ridge where camp I is set up. From Camp I your first real camp is only one and half hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. You sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail. Camp II - Now you are really climbing. This section of the route is usually rocky climbing only, depending on the season. The granite is high quality and the moves fun, challenging and exposed but “do-able”. You follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you are very thankful of the fixed ropes in place. Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the ropes all the time if you are finding the going getting a bit too hard you can just rest on the fixed rope. You can also use your Jumber to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain. Camp II - Now for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route. We follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300m, which serves the purpose of camp III. Camp III - A cold and exposed position is the start of your summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is however the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit. Summit day - The initial route is to the right of the huge “Dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope, which is often iced. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. After the summit, you will return to Kathmandu and the farewell dinner will be at typical Nepali restaurant enjoying together with Nepali culture show program.

Highlights

* Rim of the Kathmandu valley excursion
* Summit Mount Amadablam (6812m)
* Magnificent views of Mt. Everest, Mt. Cho Oyu, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Lhotse, Lhotse Middle Peak, Lhotse Shar, Mt Nuptse, Mt Baruntse, the majestic Ama Dablam and other numerous peaks within Everest and Khumbu region.
* Opportunity to explore the high mountain valleys and several species of endangered wild animals.
* Experience the culture and tradition of warm and friendly Sherpa ethnic tribe community.

Trip Summary

Trip Grade Climbing
Trip Duration 30 Days
Trip code NAP-AMA - 222
Trip Start/Ends 35 minutes, round trip Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu.
Maximum Altitude Summit Mt. Ama Dablam (6812m
Trip Cost Prices on request
Group Size Minimum 2 upto 12 persons in one climbing group
Accessibillity kathmandu fly to Lukla, after completing the expedition return back to Kathmandu
The Route South West Ridge (First climbed by American and New Zealand team in 1961).
Season Spring/Autumn/Summer
Permit Fee Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition USD 400 on Spring season, USD 200 on Autumn season, USD 100 on Winter/Summer
Trip Facilities 3+ hotel in city on B/B and teahouse/lodges and tented accommodation during the climbing period.

Cost Included

  • Fee: Royalty fee of Mt. Ama Dablam peak permit, national park entrance permit.
  • Activities: Sightseeing, trekking and climbing as per the guideline itinerary.
  • Equipment: All necessary camping equipments, kitchen utilizes upto higher camp for members, staffs and common climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, ice bar, pitons, etc.
  • Accommodation: 6 night’s hotel accommodation in city and 23 nights lodges/Tent during trekking and expedition period.
  • Food: Full board on teahouse/tented [Breakfast, lunch and dinner] during the trekking and expedition upto Ama Dablam base camp and 6 breakfasts in city.
  • Staffs: Trekking Leader/Guide, high altitude Sherpa, Liaison officer and necessary supporters for expedition.
  • Transportation: Arrival/departure transfer and surface road-head transportation and Scheduled flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and return flight to Kathmandu..
  • Company & Government’s service charge: All applicable Government taxes & official service charges. And food, air and road-head transportation, equipments, daily allowance of expedition supporters.

Cost Excluded

  • International flight and departure taxes
  • Original entry visa into Nepal
  • Lunch and dinner while in city 
  • Bar bills & Beverages
  • Personal travel insurance covering such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
  • Related charges for communication equipment and filming applied as per regulation
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving into Nepal by air/road cargo.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone calls etc.
  • Oxygen & Mask regulator
  • High altitude food and fuel above base camp.
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above base camp
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving to Nepal by air or road.
  • Garbage fee (Refundable)
  • Tips/Gratuities for trekking and expedition crews
  • Optional activities
  • And unforeseen expenses which are out of control by Nepal Adventure Point

Trip Notes

Please request our Trip Note advice and detailed itinerary.

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